On Saturday we took a drive to Nürnberg, about 2 hours north of Munich to visit the Christkindlesmarkt. Our first stop in the town was to be the Johannisfriedhof cemetery as having studied Albrecht Dürer, I wanted to see his grave. For a change, I wasn´t commissioned to drive and I could sit back and relax, although I used the time to urge the driver on, as soon it would be dark, why dark, I hear you wondering, that´s because we have to be the world´s most relaxed couple, yeah right, and it usually takes us time before we finally get going! Ok to be fair, an unexpected appointment cropped up during the morning and we couldn´t leave until 2pm. After a debate, I wanted to postpone to the Sunday but DH insisted we still go, as midnight was our anniversary.
We parked fairly close, to a cute lil sign which said, c´mon guys hurry up, you can park half on the pavement! grab the pooch and run! Entering this quaint cemetery, I had to blink, everything was so pukka, so pretty if you think of it like that. Ok I ordered, we´ve got no time, you scan left and back and I´ll do the rest, whistle when you see Dürer. Off he ran with the pooch in his arm as he didn´t want her to wet her paws, not because she doesn´t really like moist paws, but more because later she would have to walk on his leather seats (rolls eyes!). OK so obviously I got distracted, how could I not, all these old and interesting stone graves, perfect tombs, the perfect backdrop with dark setting in and the smell of rain - beautifully spooky, now where was harry potter? Right in the middle is a picturesque church, built in the 14th century and escaping the bombing raids.
Round and round, düüüüüürer - where ahhhhhhhh youuuuu? 15 minutes later, conjuring up various images of his woodcut, Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse, the horse´s nostrils droned by our art teacher, we met up, hubby not albrecht. Any sign, nope, ok, there´s a man in the mist, off I hop around the tightly squeezed tombstones, to have a word. Grussgott, do you speak English? Great, I´m looking for Mr. Dürer..I´m sorry he´s not available right now, he´s in a meeting, can I take a message? This round, friendly Bavarian man is middle aged, in a tracksuit and raking the sand around the tomb he is visiting. I stop my thoughts for a second and sadly wonder who he is visiting. He stands up, he has a beard, and a funny kinda long curly tuft of hair down his neck and a gold earing. He is typically wearing Birckenstock open leather sandals, with wooly socks! I wouldn´t have expected anything more... or less. He points out an enormous conifer and tells me to look next to it. I feel rude to just leave, but I dart off anyway, scavenging around the pine. Nothing! Come on Albrecht, stop playing hide and seek with me. I look back at my bavarian friend helplessly, shrugging my shoulders and so he walks over in my direction. Within less than a minute, we are looking at Albrecht. The epitaph written by his closest friend, Pirckheimer reads: Whatever was mortal of Albrecht Dürer is buried beneath this mound. He died at age 57 on April 6, 1528.
Then he urges me to come and look at some other typically and important Bavarian graves, telling me at each one to quickly take a picture so I could read up later as he couldn´t explain in english and it was soon closing time.

An interesting tombstone was that of Paumgartnerus where one can see an interesting depiction of his wives and the children he had with them, sculpted into the metal plate. Finally he showed me the resting place of Veit Stoss, who had a bronze skull on the grave whose mouth could open and close as if it was talking and telling me to read about him. DH had gone back to check the car, while I took some snaps with the help of a torch of the curator of the cemetery who had come along to join in the tour. With that my Bavarian friend saluted me and said Here, it is time to go to bed (it was after all 5pm).
Then it was my turn to drive and we moved along to the old medieval centre, driving through the wall that goes around the whole city. Parked the car and we walked to the north square to see the Castle and Dürer´s house which is now a museum. On to the main market square, where it´s easy to see why it is labelled the Christmas City, filled with hundreds of beautifully decorated stalls mainly selling delicious homemade delicacies, traditional spicy gingerbread biscuits known as Lebkuchen, fruit bread, sweets, goodies and plenty of glass and wooden christmas ornaments, angels, cribs, candles, you name it, it´s a feast for the eyes, not to mention the tastebuds. The stall keepers take much pride in decorating their stalls, this is a serious task with prizes every year for the best stalls. Nürnberg is also famous for its sausages and homemade toys. We spent a couple of hours working our way through all the buzz, this market is the oldest in Germany and attracts 2 million visitors every year.
We started with the fruit bread, a bite of heaven, rich and dark, filled with big chunks of figs, almonds, hazelnuts, plums, dates, orange rind, raisins and apricots (don´t even think calories here). Then we sampled splitterbombs, I think they were called, kinda like a giant sweetie pie except the inside cream was strawberry flavoured and ever-so-light!
What a treat to take in all the sights and smells, completely magical, in fact, I kept looking down at the cobbled streets, amongst all the human feet, to watch the little gnomes and pixies jumping out the way, for fear of being trod on.
Around 9pm when our human feet were really tired, we thought we would stop for dinner, we were also craving savoury after all the sweet stuff we had sampled. Embarrassed to admit, but we didn´t indulge in a typically bavarian meal, but we found a corner in a lovely Italian place and ate a gorgeous Del Alpe pizza with figs, sundried tomatoes, gorgonzola and another Italian hard cheese and rocket. We then spent another 2 hours walking around the medieval streets, taking in the buildings, fountains, old wooden bridges and walk a part of the old wall at the top. The night was alive with merry folks, most of whom were drinking a hot mug of Gluhwein ( a mulled wine). We got 2 mugs and welcomed the mix of hot and cinnamon. This brought us to midnight and as the clock struck, we wished each other a happy anniversary. We worked our way back to the car, through the narrow streets and bars, even though my mind kept wandering to the Nazi era and connotation to this town, I found it extremely beautiful and in some ways it reminded me of Venice, with its little bridges going over the river that winds right through the centre. We even nicknamed the main bridge, Rialto. It had a very old willow weeping right up to the water´s edge, from there you could look up and see the tiers of houses going right up to the castle in the moonlight.
Lebkuchen (Gingerbread cookies) ingredients:
We parked fairly close, to a cute lil sign which said, c´mon guys hurry up, you can park half on the pavement! grab the pooch and run! Entering this quaint cemetery, I had to blink, everything was so pukka, so pretty if you think of it like that. Ok I ordered, we´ve got no time, you scan left and back and I´ll do the rest, whistle when you see Dürer. Off he ran with the pooch in his arm as he didn´t want her to wet her paws, not because she doesn´t really like moist paws, but more because later she would have to walk on his leather seats (rolls eyes!). OK so obviously I got distracted, how could I not, all these old and interesting stone graves, perfect tombs, the perfect backdrop with dark setting in and the smell of rain - beautifully spooky, now where was harry potter? Right in the middle is a picturesque church, built in the 14th century and escaping the bombing raids.
Round and round, düüüüüürer - where ahhhhhhhh youuuuu? 15 minutes later, conjuring up various images of his woodcut, Four Horsemen of the Apocalypse, the horse´s nostrils droned by our art teacher, we met up, hubby not albrecht. Any sign, nope, ok, there´s a man in the mist, off I hop around the tightly squeezed tombstones, to have a word. Grussgott, do you speak English? Great, I´m looking for Mr. Dürer..I´m sorry he´s not available right now, he´s in a meeting, can I take a message? This round, friendly Bavarian man is middle aged, in a tracksuit and raking the sand around the tomb he is visiting. I stop my thoughts for a second and sadly wonder who he is visiting. He stands up, he has a beard, and a funny kinda long curly tuft of hair down his neck and a gold earing. He is typically wearing Birckenstock open leather sandals, with wooly socks! I wouldn´t have expected anything more... or less. He points out an enormous conifer and tells me to look next to it. I feel rude to just leave, but I dart off anyway, scavenging around the pine. Nothing! Come on Albrecht, stop playing hide and seek with me. I look back at my bavarian friend helplessly, shrugging my shoulders and so he walks over in my direction. Within less than a minute, we are looking at Albrecht. The epitaph written by his closest friend, Pirckheimer reads: Whatever was mortal of Albrecht Dürer is buried beneath this mound. He died at age 57 on April 6, 1528.
Then he urges me to come and look at some other typically and important Bavarian graves, telling me at each one to quickly take a picture so I could read up later as he couldn´t explain in english and it was soon closing time.
An interesting tombstone was that of Paumgartnerus where one can see an interesting depiction of his wives and the children he had with them, sculpted into the metal plate. Finally he showed me the resting place of Veit Stoss, who had a bronze skull on the grave whose mouth could open and close as if it was talking and telling me to read about him. DH had gone back to check the car, while I took some snaps with the help of a torch of the curator of the cemetery who had come along to join in the tour. With that my Bavarian friend saluted me and said Here, it is time to go to bed (it was after all 5pm).
Then it was my turn to drive and we moved along to the old medieval centre, driving through the wall that goes around the whole city. Parked the car and we walked to the north square to see the Castle and Dürer´s house which is now a museum. On to the main market square, where it´s easy to see why it is labelled the Christmas City, filled with hundreds of beautifully decorated stalls mainly selling delicious homemade delicacies, traditional spicy gingerbread biscuits known as Lebkuchen, fruit bread, sweets, goodies and plenty of glass and wooden christmas ornaments, angels, cribs, candles, you name it, it´s a feast for the eyes, not to mention the tastebuds. The stall keepers take much pride in decorating their stalls, this is a serious task with prizes every year for the best stalls. Nürnberg is also famous for its sausages and homemade toys. We spent a couple of hours working our way through all the buzz, this market is the oldest in Germany and attracts 2 million visitors every year.
We started with the fruit bread, a bite of heaven, rich and dark, filled with big chunks of figs, almonds, hazelnuts, plums, dates, orange rind, raisins and apricots (don´t even think calories here). Then we sampled splitterbombs, I think they were called, kinda like a giant sweetie pie except the inside cream was strawberry flavoured and ever-so-light!
What a treat to take in all the sights and smells, completely magical, in fact, I kept looking down at the cobbled streets, amongst all the human feet, to watch the little gnomes and pixies jumping out the way, for fear of being trod on.
Around 9pm when our human feet were really tired, we thought we would stop for dinner, we were also craving savoury after all the sweet stuff we had sampled. Embarrassed to admit, but we didn´t indulge in a typically bavarian meal, but we found a corner in a lovely Italian place and ate a gorgeous Del Alpe pizza with figs, sundried tomatoes, gorgonzola and another Italian hard cheese and rocket. We then spent another 2 hours walking around the medieval streets, taking in the buildings, fountains, old wooden bridges and walk a part of the old wall at the top. The night was alive with merry folks, most of whom were drinking a hot mug of Gluhwein ( a mulled wine). We got 2 mugs and welcomed the mix of hot and cinnamon. This brought us to midnight and as the clock struck, we wished each other a happy anniversary. We worked our way back to the car, through the narrow streets and bars, even though my mind kept wandering to the Nazi era and connotation to this town, I found it extremely beautiful and in some ways it reminded me of Venice, with its little bridges going over the river that winds right through the centre. We even nicknamed the main bridge, Rialto. It had a very old willow weeping right up to the water´s edge, from there you could look up and see the tiers of houses going right up to the castle in the moonlight.
Lebkuchen (Gingerbread cookies) ingredients:
• | Honey, flour, sugar, and eggs |
• | Cinnamon, cloves, anise, cardamom, coriander, ginger, nutmeg, allspice |
• | Almonds, hazelnuts, and/or walnuts |
• | Candied lemon and orange peels |


